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Sewing Diaries

Modern Clothing












Modern Priscilla Main
March 1911
'The
Importance of Correct Corseting'
March 1912
'Spring Fashion
Talk'
June 1917






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This article originally appeared in the March,
1911 issue of The Modern Priscilla. All images are clickable
thumbnails. The first two appeared in the article, the last two are ads.
You may read the article in from the original page
here.
The Importance of Correct
Corseting
By Clarice I. Wile
Inasmuch as, all through the coming
season, we are to be debarred from the charming, not top say daring, scheme with
have been devised for our benefit and beatifying, it is obvious that, if we wish
to achieve success and distinction in our dress, we must pay particular
attention to our contours. And as, for their desired perfection we are almost
entirely dependant upon our corsets-particularly all our day and evening gowns
being destitute of any boning in the bodices- we are prepared to appreciate to
the fullest extent the beautiful shaping of the new corsets, that are made with
careful regard to that are made with he careful regard to the comfort as well a
the smartness of their wearers, now to be found on the market.

Fashions in corsets for this year are entitled to some
attention, although they have, in print, long since been discounted and are at
present simply matter of course affairs. They are also the outgrowth of the
change in fashions in gowns, which began to materialize a year ago. The
vagaries of waist-line fashion and the father morbid craze for an attenuated
physique, frankly outlined, which have lived through several seasons of
popularity and are still desperately opposing the change to normal lines, are no
longer in power and the feminine cry, already a familiar paraphrase- long live
the waistline.
If you will just notice the gowning of an up-to-date woman
you will see that the lower edge of her belt or girdle or the cord at the bottom
of the latest waists defines the normal waistline. It has no dip in the front,
but instead curves slightly upward over the hip and across the back. This
indicates that the corset she wears also thoroughly up-to-date, is shaped to her
figure at the line just described.
This
season the straight up and down silhouette is the fashionable one, the aim being
to give the effect of an uncorseted figure. To gain this end the lightest
corset fabrics are used. Some of these materials are very handsome, the
brocaded fabrics the most alluring, and there are some chic linens and coutils
embroidered from the bust to the waistline as a new feature. The tricot, or
silk jersey, on account of its strength and suppleness, is used to a large
extent. In fact, one of the features of the new corset lies in the character of
the fabric used rather then the cut. The long hip line must be preserved, and
the waist curving is, therefore, one of the important features. In order to
make the flexibility of the figure pronounced very little boning is resorted to,
and great ingenuity must be shown to give this much-desired flexibility where it
is essential to use any amount of boning. The harness of hose supporters, which
has created so much ridicule, has been lessened, and although the corsets are
long the bones do not extend below the hip line, all of which makes a plea for
comfort.
The
most important feature of the new corset is the long waist lines, decidedly
long, but in every way comfortable. The garments will fit perfectly at the
lowest possible line that they cannot be moved after once placed in position.
It is possible to take hold of the top of the corset and pull as hard as you
like, without moving it half an inch. This is undoubtedly an unusual
achievement and one that has been needed for some time. The long waist is
maintained even when the bust of the corset is very low, and even wide belts
worn on dresses give no appearance of shortness of figure. Asides from this the
new corsets are better in value then those of preceding years. The boning is
stronger, for the important of good stays in long corsets has been apparent, and
an excellent quality of hose supporters has supplanted the rather questionable
affairs, which have been used on really good corsets.
A
new advice to women when putting on a corset has just reached me and I believe
it will be a help to you as it is an important one concerning proper corseting.
When the new corsets are put on the lacers are to be left wide apart and the
hooking is to begin at the top, but before drawing up the lacers, pull the
corset down in the back as much as you use to pull them down in the front. Slip
the hand inside below the waist, first over one hip and then over the other,
gently pulling up the flesh and pressing the corsets downward. This keeps the
stays in place and prevents them from riding up or giving that old fashioned
slant to the waist-line. Then the lacing helps to accentuate this effect.


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